Recipe: Duck Dim Sum

I've probably mentioned before my love of dim sum. I adore pretty much any type of food that involves a little bit of everything, whether it's called a picnic, a smorgasbord, a tasting platter or an antipasti selection. I am irritatingly indecisive when it comes to food, so it's not really a surprise that I am a fan of   being able to avoid it.

One of the best things about living with my old flatmate was that we'd regularly share meals. She is just as indecisive as me and always game for trying something new. We still tend to get together over food - chatting and catching up while cooking together, or trying a new cafe or restaurant after work. It just so turned out that neither of us had plans for Saturday night, so we decided to resurrect the old tradition of food and a film. Dim Sum was suggested, and we thought we'd venture out of our comfort zones and attempt to make our own dumplings.
A note for the purists - I have no idea how "authentic" these are. They're probably more like a cross between a Chinese guoti potsticker dumpling and a Japanese gyoza than a true version of one or the other, but either way they were delicious, and incredibly easy to make.

Most of the ingredients are fairly easy to find in large supermarkets, with perhaps the exception of the wrappers. I found these in the frozen section of my local chinese supermarket. We bought both the large square ones and the small round ones. If you can, get the latter as they're much easier to seal the filling in. We used a food processor, as it was infinitely easier but if you're desperate you could dice the meat very finely into very small pieces with a large knife - or you could use high quality pork mince.

Duck Dim Sum Dumplings
Makes 35

2 duck breasts, or 3 thighs
3 spring onions, or half a leek
1 teaspoon Chinese 5 spice
1 teaspoon ginger
1 medium hot chilli
2 cloves of garlic, crushed or finely diced
1 generous tablespoon hoi sin sauce
1 egg
pre-made dumpling wrappers
oil, for frying

Skin your duck breasts or thighs and remove any visible fat. If you're using thighs, pull off all the meat, leaving behind the bone, tendons and any sinew. Chop into rough pieces, and pop into the food processor.
Chop up the spring onions or leek into thin rounds, and add those in to the food processor - blitz with the duck for a few seconds, until the duck is starting to become like mince in texture and the leek is finely diced.
Add in the remaining ingredients - except for the wrappers or oil - and blitz again to mix through.
Next up: the assembly stage.
Place your wrapper onto a nonstick surface. Using two teaspoons, place a small amount - about half a teaspoon - into the centre of the wrapper. Dip the end of your finger into a mug of water and run it around the edge of the wrapper - that will help it to stick together. Fold the circle over into two, to make a half moon shape, and squeeze the edges together. Set aside and repeat.
To cook: there's a couple of ways to cook them but I find using a really good non-stick frying pan or wok with a lid (you could improvise with a wooden chopping board if needed!) is easiest and reduces likelihood of them sticking as they steam.
Heat up a small amount of oil - about half a teaspoon, tilting the pan so that it covers as much of the surface as possible.
Using chopsticks or tongs so you don't burn yourself, add the dumplings to the pot. Move them around a little so they don't stick, then fry for a minute. Carefully - throw a cup of water into the pan. It will sizzle and spit. Allow the dumplings to steam for 2 or 3 minutes with the lid on (add more water if needed) before removing the lid and boiling the water off. They will start to stick to the pan once cooked, going crispy on one side. Don't let them burn!

Best eaten straight away, but if you need to keep them warm while they are batch cooked, keep them on a hot plate in an oven at it's lowest temperature.

Serve with a dipping sauce made of half rice wine vinegar, half soy sauce, with garlic and fresh chilli to taste.

Recipe: Pea and Ham Hock Soup

I love Autumn. It's my favourite of the seasons: knitwear, boots, colourful trees, fireworks, and the promise of Christmas when it turns really cold. What's not to like? Mostly though, it signifies the start of Proper Food. I'm not a salad girl (I like my carbohydrates) and I love a comforting hot lunch on a blustery day.

This soup is a perfect autumn comforter. Ham hocks (or houghs) are incredibly cheap, mostly because they are time-consuming to cook. They've fallen out of fashion because of their association with poverty food, but like so many cheap cuts of meat, they're full of flavour. Mine was under £1.50 for an outdoor reared one (I'd strongly suggest getting a British outdoor reared, free range or organic one if you can - partly because of welfare standards, but partly because you really do want something with a high meat content for this recipe). I've adapted this recipe from half a dozen variations. If you can't be bothered faffing with the hock to make stock, then you could miss out that step, and use good quality liquid ham stock and rashers of bacon or diced gammon. If you have a slow cooker though, it's especially worth the effort, as it would quite happily bubble away overnight.

Pea and Ham Hock Soup

For the stock:
1 smoked ham hock
2 carrots
1 large onion
2 bay leaves
10 peppercorns
a bouquet garni (if you have any handy)

For the soup:

10g butter

1 diced clove garlic

1 finely chopped large onion

2 diced carrots

400g dried split peas

1 litre fresh ham stock

175g ham, finely diced 

To make the stock:
Soak the hock for about 12 hours, or overnight in cold water, changing the water a couple of times if you can. This will help to draw out some of the saltiness from the smoking. 

Roughly chop the onion and two carrots, and add to a large pan.
Add in the ham hock, bay leaves, peppercorns and bouquet garni and cover with fresh cold water, about 2.5 litres.
Bring to the boil, skim off any froth, and then simmer for an hour. Make sure that the hock stays covered, adding more water if needed (if you have a slow cooker, this would be great to do overnight).

Drain, reserving the liquid. Cool at room temperature until it stops steaming, then refrigerate for 2-3 hours (or overnight).

Allow the ham hock to cool to holdable temperature, before picking off the meat and setting aside. Discard as much fat as you can, along with the skin.

When the stock is cold, skim off the fat and strain before use.

To make the soup:

Rinse the split peas (check that the packet doesn't require overnight soaking - mine didn't but some apparently do).

In a large pan, melt the butter, and fry the onion, carrots and garlic. 

Mix in the split peas, and cover with stock. 

Bring to the boil, and simmer for an hour until the peas are soft and starting to break up. You may need to add a bit more hot water to keep the peas just covered.

Take off the heat and allow to cool before blending until smooth. You will need to add more water as you continue to blend - it's a matter of preference how thick you want the soup, but add the water slowly, blending to mix it in before adding more.

Mix in 125g of the ham to the soup and bring back to the heat.

Serve with a sprinkling of the remaining meat, freshly ground pepper, and crusty bread and butter.

Review: The Gardener's Cottage

There is something incredibly romantic about the story of The Gardener's Cottage. The B-listed single story house was designed by William Playfair, and came into being in 1836 as the residence of the man responsible for the upkeep of Royal Terrace Gardens. It is a beautiful double fronted single story structure - neoclassical in design, but understated compared to most of Playfair's Edinburgh and hidden away from the road by a high hedge. Perhaps that's why it lay empty for a number of years, neglected and unloved, until it caught the eye of two chefs, looking for a unique venue for their first restaurant.

Unique is definitely the right word.

I have been desperate for an excuse to try The Gardener's Cottage ever since we moved into the area a couple of months ago. Walking past it every day, hearing the buzz that's been building, looking at the menu on the way past - it was firmly on the list.  We'd attempted a few times to book a table but left it too late, so getting a 2 at 7.30 on a Friday in the festival for Mr F's birthday was nothing short of a miracle.

The menu changes daily - any dietary requirements are asked for on booking. A lady to our left was veggie and that wasn't a problem at all - she had a variation on the set menu which looked every bit as interesting as the meaty version. 

Communal tables, set simply. 

A sharing appetiser of pickled mackerel, broad bean pate and nasturtiums with homemade sourdough. The pate was really unusual - fresh, minted and lovely with the mackerel. 

Confit duck leg with fresh beans. The duck was incredible, delicately flavoured with fresh herbs and melt-in-the-mouth soft without being greasy. The beans were crunchy and set the duck off perfectly.

Tomato, red pepper and courgette soup with mint yoghurt. The photo doesn't do the colour justice. It was velvety soft and the perfect temperature to bring out the freshness without having to wait for it to cool to eat it (not too hot, but warmer than room temperature - lovely)

BBQ duck with chanterelles, roasters, jelly and hazelnuts. The duck breast was still pink but not too rare for me, and the small portion of soft game meat that came with it was worked really well with chargrilled broccoli to stop it being too rich. The roasters were phenomenal - more of a confit potato than a Sunday effort. I could have happily eaten a dozen. 

Gooseberry jelly, yoghurt granita, Hyssop ice-cream. The gooseberry jelly was lovely and sharp, and the small bits of mueringue that were scattered over the top added a crunch. I wasn't convinced about the hyssop though, I thought that it slightly overwhelmed everything else. 

Caerphilly cheese with oatmeal crackers and pickled cucumber. The strong cheese was lovely but the crackers were the highlight, strangely enough. 

Brioche, with sweet cicily ice-cream, chocolate cream, and berry compote. The chocolate cream was incredibly rich, so the berries stopped it being too much. Lovely. 

Candles and soft lighting at the end of the evening. 

The food was lovely - really unusual, and it was great to be served things that we knew were fresh, in season, and sustainable. 

The service could have done with a bit of an improvement (our waitress tended to plonk the food down and announce what it was without waiting for us to finish our sentences) and the prices of the after dinner tea and coffee (£2.20 and £3.30 respectively) stung, particularly when we had approximately 5 minutes in which to drink them before our waitress told us that it was 10pm and our seats had been booked. It's a shame that she didn't mention that when we sat down. Luckily for us, the other guests didn't show, so we took our time. If you go, it's worth checking how long you've got.

The highlight though? The company. This isn't a restaurant to go to if you're shy and retiring, or if you want to have a quiet catch up with a friend. For us, the highlight was getting to know the couples on the end of the table next to us. The first couple introduced themselves when we joined them. They were about 3 courses (and 3 glasses of matched wine) into their dinner and chatted away about being up from Kent on holiday for the festival, about shows they'd seen, and about the city. He was the chatty one, she was quieter. The highlight of the conversation included the marvellous line "Yes, we've ben coming to the Festival for about 5 years. We are married, but just not to each other." Cue slightly awkward stuttering about anything going during the festival, and an incredibly well timed duck dish (I take it back about the hit and miss service). After they ran off to watch a show, they were replaced by a second couple, Londoners who were up to watch their son. Their easygoing chat while we were finishing our coffee was lovely. It was this chatter that made the dinner so unusual and enjoyable. It was something that both of our table-sharing neighbours commented on as making it unlike any other restaurant they've been to, and certainly a very "Edinburgh" experience.  

Unusual food in a unique setting - I'm looking forward to finding another reason to go back.

Set menu: £30 per person.

Matched wines: £35 per person.

Wines by the bottle from around £14.

The Gardener's Cottage

Royal Terrace Gardens

London Road

EH7 6DX

Review: The Lobster Shack, North Berwick

I live right in the heart of Edinburgh, which is a beautiful city, but during August it can be overwhelming. The tourist season is in full swing and the hustle and bustle of the festival is constant. I am certainly not one of those locals who does everything they can to escape the city. I enjoy being reminded how lovely Edinburgh is, it stops me becoming complacent - but it is nice to get away and have some peace and quiet for a few hours.

North Berwick is a small but affluent seaside town about 40 minutes drive from Edinburgh. It's also home to The Lobster Shack. The Shack is a really simple concept: a shed nestles in the harbour walls, and sells a range of freshly cooked seafood. There's half a dozen wooden tables and chairs off to the side, and plenty of benches around the harbour walls. You place your order and wait for your number to be yelled, which took about 10 minutes. Compared to your average fish and chip shop it's not cheap, but there is something rather special about it. Let's face it, not many places serve lobster (even fewer places kill them to order) and at less than half of the cost of an Edinburgh restaurant you can't really go wrong for a special treat. For me though, the thing that makes it special, the main reason I loved it, was the sheer joy of eating my first lobster using my fingers and a plastic fork while rainclouds threatened us overhead.

The Lobster Shack
North Berwick Harbour, East Lothian
Lobster and Chips with soft drinks, for two: £26.30

Recipe: Rice Noodle Salad

I first had this kind of salad when Mr F's mum made it as a side dish for a help-yourself family lunch. I've since adapted the recipe, from a Good Housekeeping magazine, to make it a bit more interesting and it's become a favourite.

We like it in a lunch box, just as it is, or as a super quick, easy and healthy dinner with a bit of hot smoked salmon or mackerel flaked in. The edamame beans (also known as soya or soybeans) are optional, but are a great way of adding protein and keeping it veggie. Most supermarkets keep them near the frozen peas.
Because it can be prepared in advance, kept in the fridge for a couple of hours and is great at room temperature, it's perfect for taking along to a BBQ or for serving with Hoisin duck at a dinner party. 

Vermicelli rice noodle salad

Serves 2 generously.

300g cooked vermicelli rice noodles (fresh ones from the supermarket are ideal)

125g - about 4 inches - cucumber

125g - or 1 - red pepper

125g edamame 

1 red chilli, deseeded, finely chopped

2tbsp rice wine vinegar

3tbsp soy sauce

pinch sugar

1tbsp lime juice

1tbsp sesame oil
Small handful fresh coriander, finely chopped

Cook the noodles according to the packet instructions, and allow to cool slightly.
Deeseed the cucumber and pepper, and chop into pieces about 1cm square.

Stir together the rice wine vinegar, soy sauce, sugar, lime juice and sesame oil. 

In a large bowl, and using a large spoon, tongs or chopsticks to avoid slicing the noodles too much, mix together the vermicelli noodles with the vegetables, chilli, coriander and dressing. 

Recipe: Vietnamese Spring Rolls

My obsession with the Chinese supermarkets in Edinburgh continues. Moving towards Leith has increased the amount of Tom Yum soup in our lives, and dumplings are becoming a bit of a staple alternative Sunday lunch.
We debated doing a Dim Sum evening with friends for a flat warming dinner but as the weather has been so very lovely, something a bit more summery seemed appropriate, which led us to...

They are so delicious, so healthy, and so tasty. They're also really pretty simple once you get the hang of the folding. We make ours with prawns and noodles, but you can leave the noodles out if you like to make them less filling for a starter. They'd be great as a way to use up leftover roast chicken or pulled pork. If you're veggie, marinated tofu or edemame beans would be great to add a bit of protein. Experiment, see what you like, and use what you have in the fridge.

Vietnamese Spring Rolls (gỏi cuốn)

Beansprouts
Spring Onions, very thinly slice
Carrot, julienned into matchstick sized pieces
Cucumber, julienned
Baby gem lettuce leaves or cold steamed green cabbage
Cooked king prawns
Coriander, mint or Thai basil leaves, finely chopped
Cooked vermicelli fine rice noodles
Rice papers

Large bowl filled with warm water
Plastic chopping board or large flat plate

Firstly, cover the beansprouts with boiling water to blanche them. It's worth bearing this FSA advice in mind.
Assemble your ingredients.
The rice paper wraps are the hardest part - make sure you don't over soak them. I used a bowl that was big enough to put them in whole - put one hand at the bottom of the bowl (so that it doesn't stick to the bottom!), drop the wrap in, and count to three. The wrapper should feel wet, and flexible, but still be a bit firm. It'll keep absorbing the water for a few seconds once you've taken it out of your bowl so don't leave it until it's very flexible!
Put the wrapper onto a plate or plastic chopping board. Avoid using a wooden one - they stick and are more likely to rip as the water is absorbed into the board
Layer up your wrap. Start at the edge closest to you, and take a couple of pieces of each of the ingredients. A couple of websites I read suggested using cabbage or lettuce leaves as a base, to stop the vegetables poking through the rice paper and it does seem to help. Don't get too overexcited - we're not talking Fajita's here - if you overfill them, they'll rip.

To wrap:
Making sure that you keep the filling in tightly, turn the wrap over once.
Tuck in the right hand side.
Tuck in the left hand side.
Continue rolling until the end.
Using your fingertips, dab a small amount of water on to the edge to help it stick, and place edge down on a serving plate.

Great served with satay, hoi sin or sweet chilli dips.

Recipe: Peanut Butter Biscuits

I have decided (not resolved - I don't believe in resolutions) to start enjoying cooking again. I go through phases when I am skint or tight for time where I stick to the usual spag bol/stirfry/omlette combinations. That's all very well, but it doesn't make exciting reading for the very few people that pop on to peruse my musings, so I've spared you all.

This isn't the most standard of January recipes (hello, hips and thighs!) but I chose to adapt this for my first New Thing of 2013 as it was an excuse to crack the lovely cup measures I got for Christmas...

I love them!

I can see the advantage of cup measures for drier ingredients like sugar and flour, but for peanut butter and butter, it was a slightly messy adventure. I ended up writing down the weights for future reference:

Peanut Butter Biscuits.
Makes 40 (!)

110g butter
110g caster sugar
110g brown sugar
150g crunchy peanut butter
1 egg
1 tsp vanilla essence
2 tbsp milk or water
250g plain flour
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp salt

Pre-heat the oven to 180C, and line two large baking trays with greaseproof paper.
Cream together the butter, sugars and peanut butter in a large bowl.
Beat in the egg, milk or water, and vanilla.
Slowly add in the flour and baking powder (it will seem very dry to begin with, adding in stages makes it easier).
When the mixture has come together, use a tea spoon to portion into balls. Roll between your palms into a smooth ball, then lightly squash them onto the baking tray. Leave plenty of room between them and don't squash them too flat, as they will spread during baking.
Bake in batches for roughly 12 minutes (until turning golden, but still squashy to poke). Allow to cool for a few minutes before lifting off the greaseproof paper. If you lift them too quickly, then the lovely soft chewy middle bit will be left behind!

These would be really tasty drizzled with melted chocolate - or with chocolate drops mixed in by hand just prior to dividing into portions.

If you share my concerns about 'accidentally' eating 40 biscuits for dinner instead of something a little more nutritionally balanced, you could also freeze them and cook them as you fancy - portion them up on the greaseproof paper then wrap in clingfilm. Remove the cling film prior to baking, and cook for slightly longer from frozen. They should be safe for a few weeks tightly wrapped.

Review: The Skylark, Portobello

Ah, Sunday. Day of rest. Day of extra time in bed. Day of tea. Day when I make myself drive somewhere because of that embarrassing time when the AA man wrote "flat battery, advised customer to get over nerves and drive more" on the callout paperwork. It's a good day, all things considered, and therefore it deserves to be started well.

I don't usually see the point in going out for brunch, largely because it involves getting dressed, but also because I object to spending disproportionate amounts of money being served badly cooked and overpriced food by people who are more hungover than me. Yesterday though, the combination of a booze free night out the evening before, an extra hour in bed, and payday changed that, and we decided to take a trip down to Portobello for brunch.

The Skylark is a new spot on the high street, having only opened in July. It's operated by the same folk as have the Word of Mouth cafe in Leith, and is charmingly named after a much loved pleasureboat from yesteryear. We were surprised at how quiet it was to begin with (it opens at 11, we were there about 11.30), but I was glad to see it steadily fill up towards lunch time. The crowd was mixed- young couples with little ones were welcome, and added to the relaxed atmosphere. I love the interior... clean, fresh and eclectic, without being over done.

We sat ourselves down after a barely-there welcome, and were fairly quickly presented with food menus and asked if we'd like a drink. We ordered an orange juice, a coffee, and a pot of tea- safe options, due to a lack of drinks menu. The juice was good, tangy, freshly squeezed. Food wise, we both opted for the Eggs Benedict with bacon (£5). Considering at the time we were one of only two tables in, I was surprised it took 20 minutes to arrive. The kitchen is at the back, and we could hear the chef teaching another person how to make a hollandaise - points for freshness. It would have been nice, though, to have had a warning that it would take a wee while as we were starting to raise eyebrows before it arrived.

When the food came, it was good. Very good. The free-range eggs were perfectly cooked (only 1 of our 4 had a touch of opaque white), the hollandaise rich and buttery, the bacon nice and crisp. We were happy.

We were also impressed at the enormity of the Croque Madame that the gent at the table next to us enjoyed. He gave it a thumbs up when he caught me ogling. I was particularly intrigued by the cakes on offer, displayed behind the kitchen separator. They looked good, as did the huge danish style pastries. This place does not skimp on portions.

The menu for The Skylark isn't big, but then neither is their kitchen. Beside, it's always better to do a few things well than a lot of things badly. We have already decided that we'll go back sans car to try their dinner options and to sample the interesting range of Edinburgh Gins and fruit wines on offer. If the brunch is anything to go by then the dinner will be worth a bus ride. My only hope for improvement is that next time, service may come with a smile.

Brunch(eggs benedict with bacon for two, a pot of tea, an orange juice & a black coffee): £14.70

The Skylark Portobello
241-243 Portobello High Street, Edinburgh.
0131 629 3037
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Review: Bells Diner

The first time I remember going to a specialist burger restaurant was in 2005. Back then I was discovering the joys of London, where I'd moved to go to uni, and I'd not yet been introduced to the burger "chains" of GBK and Wannaburger. It was a novelty. I had a Halloumi and Avocado burger, which I remember being pretty good- a lot better than the meaty options that my friends had. It's strange how it's stuck in my mind as an occasion, because I can't honestly say I'm a burger connoiseur, and it's not the type of thing I'd specifically go out looking for.

The exception is where Bells Diner is concerned. It was founded in 1972, on the corner of St Stephen Street in Stockbridge, and has been an institution ever since. I have to be honest, it's a slightly odd place now. The wooden tables and dark red walls made me wonder whether the only thing that had changed over the years was the prices - but if you're booked up days in advance and clearly on to a winner, why change?

The menu in Bells is simple. Really simple. You basically pick the size of your burger (4, 6 or 8oz), pick the flavoured butter you want (or cheese, or cheese and bacon), and pick your sides. If you're feeling controversial you can go with a chicken fillet, or if you're a veggie, a nut burger or omlette. If you're on a 'diet', you can get the burger without a bun (but it still comes with chips), or a steak. And that's it. That is the menu.

I went for a 6oz burger with Roquefort butter, and a side of crispy onion.

The pickle tray is a thing of wonder and by far the best thing about Bells. This is the smaller one, believe it or not. We're talking sweetcorn relish, onion jam, chilli ham, tomato chutney, ketchup, brown sauce, bbq sauce, mayo, and salad dressing.

They do a variation on about 4 puddings. Here we have a banoffee pancake, with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream. The toffee sauce was, admittedly, one of the best elements of my meal. They also do sundaes (fairly standard), but I was warned off the cherry one by the waitress - apparently tinned cherries do not a good desert make. Honest, but a bit surprising to have something on the menu that you're advised not to order.

And that's Bells. It's not a place that's particularly easy to review. They do burgers, they do them well. The burgers are pretty good, particularly compared to some of the crap you get in chain restaurants. The atmosphere is cosy and friendly. The service is friendly and efficient. The deserts are average and I couldn't help feeling that, considering the chips were of the cheap frozen reconstituted potato kind, the whole thing was slightly overpriced. The last time I went, we took friends who lamented that it was "no Cambridge Bar" - if you want impressive toppings, Bells is not for you. But if you want a nostalgic reminder of Edinburgh in the 1970s, or a world where the burger was more about the meat than the other stuff in the bun, then it's worth a bash.

Meal for two, with a beer each and a pudding to share: £32

Bells Diner

7 St Stephen Street

EH3 5AN

0131 225 8116

Recipe: Pan-fried Gnocci with Spinach, Cherry Tomatoes & Pine Nuts

This is easily one of my favourite week night meals - it's a Mr F concoction that has become a bit of a comfort food staple. It combines several of my favourite foods (spinach, butter and potatoes), and the act of frying carbohydrates means it is probably bad for you. I tell myself that the cherry tomatoes and spinach count as two of your five a day, so that makes it ok.

Serves 2

500g gnocci (roughly one packet, unless you can be bothered making your own)
1 clove garlic, finely diced
1 generous pinch mixed dried Italian herbs
50g butter
2 tablespoons pine nuts
2 large handfuls (about 75g) baby leaf spinach
2 handfuls (about 12) cherry or baby plum tomatoes, halved

Pre-heat your oven on low (to use to keep things warm).
Cook the gnocci according to the packet instructions. Meanwhile, in a frying pan, melt half of the butter and add in the pine nuts and garlic. Toast in the butter until golden, taking care not to burn them. Add in the cooked and drained gnocci, adding more butter if necessary to prevent it sticking to the pan, and stir gently. The gnocci should fry slowly for a minute or so on each side, until golden and crispy. Transfer the gnocci and nuts into an ovenproof dish, and keep warm in the oven. Make sure you pour over any butter that's been left behind to keep the flavour!
In the same pan, pop the other half of the butter in. Stir in the spinach, sprinkle on the mixed dried herbs, and wilt away the liquid. This may take a minute or so. When the spinach liquid has evaporated, mix in the cherry tomatoes, stirring only occasionally, to soften the flesh and char the skin slightly.
Remove the gnocci from the oven, stir through the spinach, tomatoes and pine nuts, and serve on hot plates. Season with pepper, or, if you fancy, a little parmesan.

Review: The Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art (Modern Two) Cafe

Normally it rains on my days off - particuarly if they are days off in lieu for working a weekend - so I plan hours of swimming, drinking tea, catching up on telly programmes that Mr F rolls his eyes at, and crocheting. But the last time I had a random day off, the sun shone, and I felt the need to get out of the flat.

I live within a stone's throw of the Water of Leith, a beautiful river with a walkway that meanders its way through Edinburgh. I used to work in Leith, and on sunny days enjoyed walking home along the banks, spotting herons and Antony Gormley statues, but it's not a route that I take if I'm in a hurry to get somewhere, and so it's not one that I use often. It seemed a pretty perfect day to take a walk along it, see an exhibition at the National Gallery of Modern Art, have a bit of lunch, and wander home before the inevitable afternoon clouds.

I joined it at Saunders Street, in Stockbridge, where the Stockbridge Gormley statue has been hiding underwater for nearly a month due to the raised river levels. I wandered westwards, through the greenery, past St Bernard's Well...

... and through to Dean Village.

 

It was at this point that I encountered a diversion, caused by the recent bad weather, which led me up via the Dean Cemetery, and round and down to the Galleries. As I was walking in, I spotted the Inter-Gallery Bus service, which is a great idea for those not familiar with the city or with transport difficulties.

I headed into the former Dean Gallery, now rather pretentiously called Modern Two. It's a beautiful building with a lawn in front - if you peek between the trees, you can spot the castle.

I had a wander around the galleries - there's not many in Modern Two, so it's perfect to spend an hour before lunch. On my way upstairs I fell in love slightly with this, a piece by Richard Wright called The Stairwell Project.

After spending some time contemplating the Munch exhibition (stunning - highly evocative and deepy emotional prints), I wandered back down past this fellow, a huge two-story sculpture, down to the cafe below.

The cafe in the gallery is quite an unusual layout. Being opposite the main entrance, it's one of the first things that you see when you come in to the building, which really draws you in. I'm surprised that they havn't used the space for more galleries, as it's really a group of smaller spaces with interconnecting doors, but this layout and the simple features make for a welcoming space. I particularly like that the bottom of the statue is in the second half of the cafe - art and food, mingling together.

Sorry for the rubbish interior shots. I got told off by a room steward trying to get the bottom one so I had to switch to my phone(they'd apparently not noticed me going round upstairs!)

 I was lucky to get a table - the cafe was busy, and several tables had been pre-booked for afternoon teas (which looked lovely). The friendly waitress handed me a copy of the days menu, which had been influenced by the Munch exhibition. The treats on offer were Scandinavian influenced, a food trend which seems to be booming at the moment, and was varied. Good options for vegetarians were included, and prices weren't outrageous. I was tempted by a couple of things - both the artichoke hummus and the creamy polenta dishes sounded lovely. When I admitted to the waitress that I couldn't decide, she brought me a taster of the hummus - brilliant customer service, and a good way to try something new. Being contrary, I went for the polenta.

It was amazing. I've never eaten something quite like this before. I wasn't entirely sure I was going to like it, but I did. Somehow the combination of the sweet honey with the salty cheese and peppery bitter rocket just, well, worked. The unsalted pistachios added extra texture and crunch to the smoother polenta, and were nice and waxy compared to the crumbly blue cheese. It was wonderful, and I'm looking forward to trying to recreate it again at home. I'd decided to treat myself to a glass of red wine to go with it, and I was glad that I did - it turned lunch for one into a luxury.

I ended with a flapjack. It was huge, crumbly and chewy. Perfect.

The food and service were great, and the surroundings are stunning. It's a shame that you can't sit outside at the Modern Two as you can over the road in the Modern One, but the atmosphere inside is lovely. It is so nice to find a museum or gallery cafe where the food is interesting and original, and as worth a trip as the art itself.

 

Lunch for one (including a glass of wine, and a pot of tea with dessert): £15

 

Cafe Modern Two

Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art

75 Belford Road

EH4 3DR